Tesla Jack Points & Lifting Guide: How to Safely Jack Up Any Tesla

Every Tesla DIY repair starts with getting the car safely off the ground. But Teslas aren't like regular cars—there's a massive battery pack underneath, and lifting in the wrong spot can cause thousands of dollars in damage or create a serious safety hazard. This guide covers everything you need to know about jacking up your Tesla safely, including exact lift point locations, the right equipment, and common mistakes to avoid.

Why Tesla Jacking Is Different

Traditional cars have exposed frame rails and pinch welds that make finding lift points straightforward. Teslas present unique challenges:

• Battery pack vulnerability: The battery pack spans nearly the entire underside of the vehicle. Lifting anywhere on or near it risks cracking the enclosure, voiding your warranty, and creating a potential fire hazard.
• No traditional pinch welds: Tesla's unibody construction doesn't have the same pinch welds you'd find on most ICE vehicles.
• Dedicated lift points: Tesla engineers built specific reinforced lift points into the subframe—four total, one near each corner of the car.
• Air suspension considerations: Model S and Model X (and some Model Y configurations) have air suspension that must be disabled before lifting.

Getting this right is non-negotiable. Let's walk through it.

Tesla Jack Point Locations

Every Tesla has four factory lift points built into the vehicle subframe. They're located between the front and rear wheels, on each side of the car. Each lift point has a small locating hole (or holes) designed to accept a jack pad adapter.

Model 3 & Model Y

• Location: Four lift points, one near each corner of the vehicle, along the side sills between the wheels
• Identification: Each lift point has a single locating hole in the center of the reinforced pad
• Post size: 24mm diameter (standard for all Model 3 and Model Y variants)
• Spacing: Approximately 5 feet (152 cm) between front and rear lift points on the same side

Model S & Model X

• Location: Same general layout—four lift points along the side sills near each corner
• Identification: Each lift point pad has three locating holes—use the center hole for your jack pad
• Post size: 24mm diameter

⚠️ Critical Warning: NEVER position a jack or lift arm under the battery pack or side rails. The locations described above are the only approved lifting points. Lifting anywhere else risks serious damage.

Essential Equipment

Jack Pads (Non-Negotiable)

Tesla jack pad adapters—often called "pucks"—are the single most important accessory for jacking your Tesla. They're small rubber or polymer discs with a locating post that fits into the hole on each lift point.

Why you need them:

• The locating post centers the jack precisely on the lift point
• The pad distributes force across the reinforced area
• Prevents the jack from slipping off and contacting the battery
• Protects the lift point pad from damage and deformation

A set of 4 pucks typically costs $20-40. Considering what's at stake (battery replacement can run $10,000-20,000+), this is the cheapest insurance you'll ever buy.

What to look for:

• Locating post that matches your model (24mm standard for Model 3/Y, center hole for Model S/X)
• Rubber O-ring on the post to keep the puck seated
• Flat, wide pad surface (at least 75mm diameter)
• Quality material—heavy-duty polymer or rubber, not cheap plastic that'll crack under load

Floor Jack

• Capacity: Minimum 3-ton rating (Teslas are heavy—a Model 3 is about 1,800 kg / 4,000 lbs, Model X can exceed 2,400 kg / 5,300 lbs)
• Profile: Low-profile design recommended. Teslas sit low, especially performance variants. Standard floor jacks may not fit under the lift points without first driving the front wheels onto ramps.
• Saddle: A flat saddle works best with the jack pad puck sitting on top. Some jacks have a rubber saddle pad that helps hold the puck in place.

Jack Stands

• Capacity: 3-ton rated minimum
• Type: Standard jack stands work, but you'll want to use jack pads on the stands too, or position the stands on the lift points (alternating with the floor jack)
• Quantity: 2 minimum for single-side work, 4 for lifting the entire car

Wheel Chocks

Simple rubber or plastic chocks placed behind the wheels that stay on the ground. Non-negotiable safety item that costs almost nothing.

How to Enable Jack Mode

Jack Mode is a vehicle setting that disables the automatic self-leveling on air suspension equipped Teslas. If you skip this step on a car with air suspension, the system may try to adjust ride height while the car is lifted—potentially dropping the car off the jack.

When You Need Jack Mode

How to Activate Jack Mode

1. With the vehicle powered on, tap Controls on the touchscreen
2. Tap Service
3. Toggle Jack Mode to ON

The car will lower to its lowest ride height setting and lock the suspension in place. You'll see a confirmation on screen.

Note for Model 3/Y owners: Even though coil spring models don't have active suspension, enabling Jack Mode (if available in your software version) is still good practice. It disables some automatic leveling behaviors and ensures the car stays put.

Step-by-Step: Jacking Up Your Tesla

Preparation

1. Park on a flat, level surface. Concrete or asphalt—never gravel or soft ground.
2. Engage the parking brake. The car should be in Park with the parking brake set.
3. Place wheel chocks on the wheel diagonally across from where you're lifting. Lifting the left front? Chock the right rear wheel. Lifting the right rear? Chock the left front. This matches Tesla's official service manual procedure and provides the best stability.
4. Enable Jack Mode if your vehicle has air suspension (see above).
5. Loosen lug nuts before lifting—just a quarter turn to break the torque. Don't remove them yet.

Lifting One Corner (Single Wheel Work)

This is the most common scenario—changing a tire, inspecting brakes, or replacing a parking sensor.

1. Position the jack pad puck on your floor jack's saddle. The locating post should face up.
2. Roll the floor jack under the vehicle to the lift point nearest the wheel you need to access.
3. Align the puck's locating post with the hole in the lift point pad. This may take a bit of maneuvering.
4. Pump the jack slowly. Watch the puck—make sure it stays centered and the post engages the hole as the jack makes contact.
5. Lift until the tire is 2-3 inches off the ground. You don't need more than that for most jobs.
6. Place a jack stand near the lift point (or use the same lift point if your setup allows it). Never work under a car supported only by a floor jack.
7. Carefully lower the jack until the car rests on the jack stand. Give it a gentle push to confirm stability.

Lifting One Side (Two Wheels)

Needed for work like side mirror replacement or side-specific suspension work.

1. Chock wheels on the opposite side.
2. Lift the front corner first using the front lift point, place a jack stand.
3. Move the floor jack to the rear lift point on the same side, lift and place the second jack stand.
4. Double-check both stands are secure.

Lifting the Entire Vehicle (All Four Wheels)

Required for jobs like wheel alignment or comprehensive undercarriage inspection.

1. Lift one side at a time—front then rear—placing jack stands at each point.
2. Move to the opposite side and repeat.
3. All four jack stands should be at approximately the same height.
4. Shake the car gently to verify stability before getting underneath.

Lowering Your Tesla

1. Position the floor jack back under the lift point and raise it slightly to take the weight off the jack stand.
2. Remove the jack stand.
3. Lower the floor jack slowly—don't just release the valve and let it drop.
4. Remove the jack pad puck.
5. Repeat for remaining lift points if the car was fully raised.
6. Disable Jack Mode on the touchscreen (if you enabled it).
7. Torque your lug nuts to 175 Nm (129 ft-lbs) in a star pattern if you removed wheels. Re-torque after 100 km (60 miles) of driving.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

❌ Lifting Without Jack Pads

This is the #1 mistake. Without a puck centering on the lift point, the jack can slip and contact the battery enclosure. Even a slight misalignment can damage the lift point pad itself, making future lifting more difficult and less safe.

❌ Using the Wrong Jack Points

We've seen people try to lift from the front or rear subframe crossmembers, the tow hook points, or worst of all, the battery pack itself. Only use the four designated side lift points for floor jacking.

❌ Skipping Jack Mode on Air Suspension

On Model S and X, the air suspension is active and will try to self-level. If it inflates while one corner is on a jack, the car can shift dangerously. Always enable Jack Mode first.

❌ Using a Standard Scissor Jack on Soft Ground

The emergency scissor jack that may come with your Tesla (or a roadside kit) has a tiny contact patch. On anything other than hard pavement, it can sink or tip. Use a proper floor jack for planned maintenance.

❌ Working Under a Jack Only

Floor jacks can fail—seals leak, release valves open. Always use jack stands as your primary support. The floor jack is for lifting only, never for holding.

❌ Forgetting to Torque Lug Nuts

If you removed wheels, torque to spec (175 Nm / 129 ft-lbs) and re-torque after the first ~100 km of driving. Under-torqued lugs can loosen; over-torqued lugs can warp rotors or strip threads.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I use a hockey puck instead of Tesla-specific jack pads?

Some people do, and it's better than nothing—but not ideal. A hockey puck doesn't have a locating post, so there's nothing preventing the jack from sliding. It also may not distribute force as evenly. Purpose-built Tesla puck adapters are $20-40 for a set of 4. Just get the right tool.

How low is too low for a floor jack?

Most Tesla models have about 140-150mm (5.5-6 inches) of ground clearance at the lift points. A low-profile floor jack with a minimum height of 90-100mm works well. If your jack doesn't fit, you can drive the front wheels onto 2x10 lumber or low ramps first to gain clearance, then jack from the lift points.

Do I need to disconnect the 12V battery before lifting?

No, not for simple jacking. You should disconnect the 12V battery for electrical work (like 12V battery replacement or MCU upgrade), but jacking and routine maintenance don't require it.

Can I use a two-post lift at a shop?

Yes, but the lift arms must be positioned on the four factory lift points only. Make sure the shop knows this—many traditional mechanics aren't familiar with Tesla lift point locations and may place arms on the battery tray rails. Print or show them the diagram from the owner's manual.

What if I hear a creak or pop while lifting?

Stop immediately. Lower the jack and recheck your positioning. Creaking often means the jack is contacting something other than the lift point, or the puck has shifted. Better to reposition than to damage something.

Cost Comparison: DIY vs. Service Center

The equipment pays for itself within 2-3 uses, and you'll need it for virtually every DIY repair: brake pads, tire rotation, wheel bearing replacement, control arms, struts, and more.

Related Guides

• Tesla Tire Rotation DIY Guide
• Tesla Brake Pad Replacement
• Tesla Wheel Alignment DIY
• Tesla TPMS Sensor Replacement
• Tesla Wheel Bearing Replacement
• Tesla Strut Replacement Guide
• Tesla Control Arm Replacement

Summary

Jacking a Tesla is straightforward once you know the rules: use the four designated lift points, always use jack pads, enable Jack Mode on air suspension models, and never trust a floor jack alone. The equipment investment is minimal compared to the cost of damaging your battery pack or worse. Master this, and you're ready to tackle almost any Tesla DIY repair.

Got questions about jacking or lifting your Tesla? Dealing with an unusual situation? Drop us a line—we're happy to help.