Tesla Coil Spring Replacement & Lowering Springs Guide

Coil springs on the Model 3 and Model Y wear out over time. The heavy battery pack puts constant load on them, and after 100,000–150,000 km (60,000–90,000 miles) you may notice the car sitting lower on one side, a rougher ride, or uneven tire wear. Replacing sagging springs restores the factory ride height and handling.

This guide also covers installing aftermarket lowering springs — one of the most popular suspension modifications for the Model 3 and Model Y.

When Do Springs Need Replacing?

Coil springs don't fail suddenly the way a shock absorber might. They sag gradually. Here's what to look for:

• Uneven ride height — measure from the center of each wheel to the fender lip. More than 10 mm difference side-to-side means something is off
• Bottoming out over speed bumps or with passengers — springs that have lost their tension can't handle the load they used to
• Visible cracks or breaks — inspect the spring coils for fractures, especially near the ends where they seat. Road salt accelerates corrosion in European climates
• Clunking from spring seats — a sagging spring can shift in its perch and produce a metallic clunk over bumps
• Excessive body roll — worn springs let the body lean further in corners than it should

If you're also getting a bouncy ride after bumps, that's more likely the shock absorbers than the springs. Often they wear out around the same time, so consider doing both together.

OEM Spring Part Numbers

Tesla uses different springs depending on the model, drive configuration, and whether it's a Performance variant. The Performance springs are stiffer with a slightly lower ride height.

Model 3

Model Y

Aftermarket Lowering Springs

Lowering springs drop the ride height by 15–35 mm (0.6–1.4 inches) depending on the brand. They typically use a higher spring rate than stock, which firms up the ride and reduces body roll.

Popular options:

• Unplugged Performance (~$350–$450/set) — 25 mm drop, progressive rate, well-regarded in the Tesla community
• Eibach Pro-Kit (~$250–$350/set) — 20–25 mm drop, good balance of comfort and handling
• H&R Sport Springs (~$250–$350/set) — 25–30 mm drop, sportier feel
• Tein S.Tech (~$200–$300/set) — budget option, 20–25 mm drop

Torque Specifications

Torque values verified against Tesla Service Manual (service.tesla.com) — March 2026

These values apply to the Model 3 and Model Y with coil spring suspension. Always use a calibrated torque wrench.

Front Suspension

Rear Suspension

What You'll Need

Time Required: 4–6 hours (all four springs) Skill Level: Advanced — spring compressor work is dangerous if done incorrectly

Beyond the tools listed above, have these on hand:

• Pry bar for separating suspension components
• Allen/hex key set for holding damper shafts
• Zip ties to secure brake lines and ABS sensor wires
• Masking tape and a marker to label parts
• A second person to help — holding the strut assembly while removing the last top mount nut is a two-person job

Front Spring Replacement

The front springs on the Model 3 and Model Y are part of a coilover assembly — the spring wraps around the shock absorber. To replace the spring, you remove the entire strut assembly, compress the old spring off, and install the new one.

Step 1: Prepare the Car

1. Park on a flat, level surface
2. Go to Controls > Service > Jack Mode on the touchscreen
3. Loosen the front wheel lug nuts while the car is still on the ground
4. Lift the front using the proper jack points and set it on jack stands
5. Remove both front wheels

Step 2: Spray Everything Down

Hit these fasteners with penetrating oil and let it soak for 15 minutes:

• Lower strut through-bolt
• Sway bar end link nut
• Upper control arm pinch bolt

On cars driven in salty winter conditions, these bolts can be extremely stubborn. Extra soak time pays off.

Step 3: Disconnect the Sway Bar End Link

1. Use a hex key to hold the end link stud from spinning
2. Remove the nut with a wrench
3. Pull the end link away from the strut bracket

Step 4: Remove the Lower Through-Bolt

1. Support the knuckle and hub with a jack stand — it will drop when disconnected
2. Remove the nut from the through-bolt
3. Tap the bolt out with a brass drift or rubber mallet. Don't hammer the bolt threads directly

Step 5: Separate the Upper Control Arm

1. Remove the pinch bolt and nut that clamp the upper ball joint to the knuckle
2. Pry the knuckle ears apart gently to release the ball joint. Don't strike the ball joint stud — that damages the joint

Step 6: Remove the Strut Assembly

1. Open the frunk and peel back any trim covering the strut tower
2. Have your helper hold the strut from below
3. Remove the three top mount nuts (13 mm)
4. Lower the strut assembly out through the wheel well

Step 7: Swap the Spring

This is the most critical step. Coil springs store a huge amount of energy. A spring that slips off a compressor can cause serious injury.

1. Mount the strut assembly in a spring compressor. Use a multi-arm compressor that grips the spring at multiple points — jaw-style compressors that only grab two coils are less stable
2. Compress the spring until the top mount is no longer under tension
3. Hold the damper shaft with an Allen key and remove the top nut
4. Carefully remove the top mount, spring seat, bump stop, and dust boot. Note the order — take a photo before disassembly
5. Slowly release the compressor and remove the old spring
6. Transfer the rubber isolators to the new spring if your replacement doesn't include them
7. Compress the new spring and reassemble in reverse: spring, upper spring seat, bump stop, dust boot, top mount, nut
8. Make sure the spring ends sit correctly in the lower and upper perch locating tabs

Step 8: Install the Strut Assembly

1. Feed the assembly up through the wheel well and into the strut tower
2. Hand-start the three top mount nuts
3. Torque top mount nuts to 23 Nm
4. Reconnect the upper control arm pinch bolt — hand-tight for now
5. Insert the lower through-bolt — hand-tight
6. Reconnect the sway bar end link — hand-tight

Step 9: Final Torquing

1. Install the wheel and lower the car to the ground
2. With full weight on the wheels, torque:
   • Lower through-bolt: 106 Nm
   • Upper control arm pinch bolt: 56 Nm
   • Sway bar end link: 98 Nm

Repeat for the other side.

Rear Spring Replacement

The rear setup is different from the front. On the Model 3 and Model Y, the rear springs and shocks are separate — the spring sits between the lower control arm and the body, while the shock mounts independently. This makes rear spring replacement easier since you don't need a spring compressor.

Step 1: Lift and Support

1. Activate Jack Mode
2. Lift the rear and set it on jack stands at the proper jack points
3. Remove both rear wheels

Step 2: Support the Lower Control Arm

Place a transmission jack or floor jack under the rear lower control arm. This arm holds the spring — when you disconnect things, the arm will swing down under its own weight if not supported.

Step 3: Disconnect the Shock Absorber Lower Mount

1. Remove the bolt and nut from the lower shock mount where it connects to the lower aft link
2. Push the shock up and out of the way — it stays attached at the top

Step 4: Slowly Lower the Control Arm

1. With the jack supporting the arm, slowly lower it
2. As the arm drops, the spring tension releases
3. Once there's enough clearance, pull the spring out by hand
4. Note the position of the rubber isolator pads on the top and bottom of the spring

Step 5: Install the New Spring

1. Place the rubber isolators on the new spring (transfer from the old one if replacements aren't included)
2. Set the spring into the lower seat on the control arm, making sure the end of the coil lines up with the locating tab
3. Slowly raise the jack to push the arm up, compressing the spring into place
4. Align the bolt holes for the lower shock mount

Step 6: Reconnect and Torque

1. Reinstall the lower shock mount bolt — hand-tight
2. Install the wheels and lower the car to ride height
3. Torque:
   • Lower shock mount bolt: 115 Nm
   • Lower control arm bolts: 115 Nm

Repeat for the other side.

After the Replacement

• Drive carefully for the first few kilometers. Listen for any unusual noises
• Get a wheel alignment — this is not optional after suspension work. Expect to pay $60–$100 at a tire shop. Skipping this causes uneven tire wear
• Re-check all torques after 100 km (60 miles) of driving
• Exit Jack Mode on the touchscreen
• Recalibrate Autopilot cameras if you installed lowering springs — the changed ride height shifts the camera angle. Go to Controls > Service > Camera Calibration

Cost Breakdown

Doing the job yourself saves $500–$1,000 compared to having Tesla or an independent shop handle it.

Common Mistakes

1. Using a cheap spring compressor — The single-hook clamp style slips more easily than multi-arm compressors. For the front springs, spend the money on a proper tool or rent one from an auto parts store
2. Forgetting the rubber isolators — Springs need their upper and lower rubber pads. Without them, you'll get metal-on-metal noise and the spring can shift in its seat
3. Mixing spring rates — Don't put a Performance spring on one side and a Long Range spring on the other. Always replace in pairs at minimum, full sets ideally
4. Torquing with the car in the air — The lower bolts must be torqued at ride height. This is the single most common suspension mistake and causes premature bushing failure
5. Skipping the alignment — Wheel alignment changes any time you disconnect suspension components. Budget for it

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I just replace one spring? Replace in pairs at minimum — both fronts or both rears. A single new spring next to a worn one creates uneven ride height and handling. If one spring broke, the other is probably close to failing too.

Do I need to replace shocks at the same time? Not necessarily, but if your shocks have over 100,000 km on them, doing both jobs at once saves time since you're already pulling the strut assembly apart. Check our shock absorber replacement guide for details.

Will lowering springs void my warranty? Tesla's warranty doesn't specifically exclude aftermarket springs, but any damage caused by a modification won't be covered. In practice, lowering springs are unlikely to affect warranty claims for unrelated issues. Keep your stock springs in case you ever need to revert.

How much do lowering springs drop the car? Most kits drop the Model 3 or Model Y by 20–30 mm (0.8–1.2 inches). The exact drop depends on the spring brand, your specific variant, and how much the car weighs with your typical load.

Is this the same for Model S and Model X? No. Model S and X (with air suspension) have a completely different setup — see our air suspension guide. Non-air Model S uses coil springs but with different geometry and part numbers than the Model 3/Y.

Related Guides

• Tesla Control Arm Replacement: DIY Suspension Fix — Hard · Suspension
• Tesla Shock Absorber (Damper) Replacement: DIY Guide — Advanced · Model 3, Model Y · Suspension
• Tesla Sway Bar Link Replacement: Fix That Clunking Noise — Medium · Model 3/Y · Suspension
• Tesla Wheel Bearing Replacement: DIY Guide for Model 3, Y, S & X — Advanced · Suspension
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