Tesla Frunk & Trunk Strut Replacement: 10-Minute DIY Guide
Is your Tesla frunk barely popping open? Trunk slowly sinking closed? The lift struts (gas springs) are worn out—and they're one of the easiest DIY repairs you can do.
Time: 10-15 minutes
Tools: Plastic trim tool only
Cost: $25-60 for a pair of struts
This guide covers frunk (front hood) and trunk strut replacement for Model 3, Model Y, Model S, and Model X.
Before You Start
Check If Your Struts Are User-Replaceable
Not replaceable by owner:
- Model 3 manufactured after ~January 2024 (powered trunk)
- Model S/X with soft-close or power trunk features
- Any trunk with an electric motor assist
Replaceable by owner:
- Model 3 manufactured before ~January 2024 (non-powered)
- Model Y (most versions)
- Model S/X frunk struts (hood)
- Model S/X non-powered trunk struts
If you're unsure, look at your trunk hinges. If you see an electric motor connected to the strut or hinge, it's powered—don't attempt DIY replacement.
Get the Right Parts
Model 3 Frunk (Hood) Struts:
- OEM replacement or aftermarket (ARANA, AY Customs, Abstract Ocean)
- Upgraded "auto-lift" struts available (opens frunk fully by itself)
- Approx. $30-50 per pair
Model 3 Trunk Struts (Pre-2024 Non-Powered):
- OEM or aftermarket
- Approx. $25-40 per pair
Model Y Liftgate Struts:
- Similar to Model 3 trunk
- Check for powered vs. non-powered before ordering
Model S Frunk Struts:
- Search by year—multiple revisions exist
- $40-60 per pair typical
Where to buy:
- Amazon.com | Amazon.de — ARANA, AY Customs, Maxpow
- Abstract Ocean — Quality aftermarket, auto-lift upgrades
- EVANNEX — Premium Tesla accessories
- Tesla Parts — OEM, most expensive
Frunk (Hood) Strut Replacement
Step 1: Support the Hood
- Open the frunk fully
- Use a non-marring prop (broom handle, foam pool noodle, etc.) to support the hood
- Position the prop near the center of the hood for stability
⚠️ Important: Replace struts one at a time. Never remove both simultaneously—if your prop fails, the hood could drop on you.
Step 2: Remove the Old Strut
Each strut has two ball-socket connections—one on the body, one on the hood.
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Release the bottom clip first (body side):
- Look for a small clip or ring on the ball socket
- Insert your trim tool and pry the clip open
- Pull the strut straight off the ball stud
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Release the top clip (hood side):
- Same process—pry the clip, pull off the ball stud
- Remove the old strut from the vehicle
Step 3: Install the New Strut
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Identify the correct orientation:
- The rod end (thinner part) typically goes on the body
- The cylinder end (thicker part) goes on the hood
- Check your other strut if unsure
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Lubricate the pivot points:
- Apply a small amount of silicone grease or white lithium grease to both ball studs
- This ensures smooth operation and longevity
-
Attach the body end first:
- Push the strut socket onto the ball stud until it clicks
- Make sure the clip is fully engaged
-
Attach the hood end:
- Push onto the ball stud until it clicks
- Verify both ends are secure
Step 4: Test and Repeat
- Remove the prop
- Close the frunk and reopen it
- It should lift smoothly and stay open on its own
- Repeat the process for the second strut
Trunk Strut Replacement (Non-Powered Only)
The trunk procedure is nearly identical to the frunk.
Step 1: Support the Trunk Lid
- Open the trunk fully
- Prop it open with a non-marring support
- Work on one strut at a time
Step 2: Remove the Old Strut
-
Release the lower clip (hinge/body side):
- Insert trim tool under the clip
- Pry to release, pull strut off the ball stud
-
Release the upper clip (trunk lid side):
- Same process
- Remove old strut
Step 3: Install the New Strut
- Clean the ball stud mounts (remove any old grease or debris)
- Apply fresh lubricant to both pivot points
- Attach the rod end to the body/hinge first
- Attach the cylinder end to the trunk lid
- Ensure both clips are fully seated
Step 4: Test
- Remove the prop
- Close and reopen the trunk
- Should lift smoothly and hold position
- Repeat for the second strut
Upgrading to Auto-Lift Struts
Want your frunk to open fully by itself instead of just popping up an inch? Upgraded struts with higher gas pressure can do this.
Popular Options:
Model 3 Frunk:
How they work:
- Standard struts provide ~50-60N of force (enough to hold open, not enough to lift)
- Upgraded struts provide ~80-100N (strong enough to push the hood fully open)
Installation: Identical to standard replacement—just swap in the upgraded struts.
Caution: Don't over-spec the force. Struts that are too strong can:
- Dent the underside of the hood
- Cause the hood to fly open aggressively
- Put stress on the hinges
Stick with reputable brands that are designed specifically for your Tesla model.
Troubleshooting
Strut won't clip onto ball stud:
- Make sure you're pushing straight on, not at an angle
- Check that the clip isn't bent or damaged
- Verify you have the correct strut for your model
Hood/trunk still won't stay open:
- Did you replace both struts? One weak strut can drag down a new one
- Check that clips are fully engaged (you should hear/feel a click)
- Aftermarket struts occasionally have lower pressure—consider a different brand
Hood opens crooked:
- Both struts should be the same spec
- Check that both are properly clipped on both ends
- Verify the hinge isn't bent or damaged
New struts feel too strong:
- Give them a week to break in—new struts are often stiffer initially
- If still too aggressive, you may have installed upgraded struts when you wanted standard
Cost Comparison
| Option | Cost | Time |
|---|---|---|
| Tesla Service | $150-250 | Appointment wait |
| Independent Shop | $80-120 | 30 minutes |
| DIY | $25-60 | 10-15 minutes |
Your savings: $100-200 for 10 minutes of easy work.
Model-Specific Notes
Model 3
- Pre-2024: Both frunk and trunk are DIY-replaceable
- Post-2024: Frunk is DIY, trunk is powered (Tesla service only)
- Most popular model for auto-lift upgrades
Model Y
- Liftgate struts are similar to Model 3 trunk
- Check if yours has power liftgate before ordering
- Frunk struts are straightforward to replace
Model S
- Frunk (hood) struts are user-replaceable
- Trunk struts vary by year—some are powered
- Larger/heavier hood requires matched strut force
Model X
- Falcon wing doors use complex powered hinges (not DIY)
- Frunk and front trunk struts are replaceable
- Rear hatch struts may be powered depending on configuration
Related Guides
- Tesla Frunk Won't Open — troubleshoot frunk latch issues
- Tesla Trunk Won't Close — latch and alignment problems
- Tesla Panel Gap Adjustment — adjust hood/trunk alignment
- Suspension Noise Fix — diagnose noises before replacing struts
- Jack Points & Lifting Guide — safe lift points for strut work
- Sway Bar Link Replacement — check links while struts are out
- Wheel Alignment DIY — check alignment after strut replacement
- Control Arm Replacement — inspect control arms during suspension work
Strut replacement procedures verified against Tesla Model 3 Do It Yourself Guide at service.tesla.com. Last updated February 2026.
🛠️ Tools Needed for This Repair
These are the tools I personally use and recommend. Using quality tools makes the job easier and safer.
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Basic Mechanic Tool Set
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